Monday, August 25, 2008

And the Celebrations Keep Coming (23.08.08 - 24.08.08)

Fiona and my birthday dinner at The Fallen Angel.

Jon and the ladies - those of us who weren´t at Machu Picchu.

Our table was a bath tub fish tank.

Cocktails all round.

Jon´s suggestive mashed potatoes.

Our favourite street in Cusco - the one with Jacks (not Hungry Jacks by the way).

Happy Birthday To Me (22.08.08)


Fiona and me blowing out the candles on our 30th birthday cake. We celebrated the night before my actual birthday as half the group were off to Machu Picchu the following day.


Some school chiuldren performing songs for our birthday - any excuse to get up on stage and hear their voices ampliphied in the microphone.

Receiving flowers from Jon. Fiona and I are holding a card the grade twos made for us (well the teacher made it on their behalf).


Lining up for hugs.

I have never received so many hugs and kisses in my life - one from every child and teacher at school that day.

Who would have thought so many of us would be celebrating our birthdays this month. Six volunteers aged another year in Peru (Tracey, Jon, myself, Fiona I, Julia and Susanne) as well as Selvy, making seven in total. I must say, we quite enjoyed all the celebrations. Not only was it an excuse to party but it also meant lots of cake!

Selvy, Fiona and I, all turned the big three zero this month. Fiona only two days after me, hence the joint birthday cake and dinner. A birthday tradition in this country, or at least at Pumamarca, involves having your face implanted in your birthday cake. Fiona and I managed to avoid this but Selvy was not so lucky. People here seem happy to eat the cake after this.

A special birthday highlight was having the children of Pumamarca perform songs for Fiona and me on the Friday at the school. The actual classes we ran before our birthday celebrations were mayhem as all the teachers were on an excursion (yes,the teachers, notthe kids) and half our group was on their way to Machu Picchu (we are going next week). I was ready to tear my hair out. I was on art class with grades one and twos which we had combined so there were 40 odd kids running around the room trying to make butterflies out of pipe cleaners and paddlepop sticks and getting impatient the craft glue did not stick instantaneously. They then moved onto kites which they seem to be much better at making. Who would have thought kids five years of age could consturct expert kites out of plastic bags all by themselves.
By the time it came to wish us a Happy Birthday I was well and truly ready to go back to our house. However, it was very amusing and memorable having the children perform for us. The kids seem to love hearing their voices amplified in the microphone (I dont think they really gave two hoots about our birthday), so they were all keen to line up and sing (more often shout). We even had a bit of dancing which was quite hilarious. Jon had organised bunches of flowers from somewhere which we were presented on stage. After a rendition of "Happy Birthday" that involves awkward clapping in between each sentence, we were showered with birthday hugs from all 150 children and the teachers who had by that time come back from their excursion. I was well and truly hugged out by the end (especially as I dont normally do hugs).
I will definitely remember the day I turned 30 in Peru.

Back To School (20.08.08 - 21.08.08)


Women knitting scarves and jumpers at Talleres.

Doing the administration work.

Kristy entertaining the children while their mothers earn an income. The kids love colouring in.

One of the many children wandering around.

Ross, Terry and Jon digging holes for the fence - very time consuming work due to the primative tools and hard soil.

Beth, a nurse from Adelaide, looking after a sick child. The girl had to walk 1.5 hours home across country despite having a temperature of 39 degrees.

Sacred Valley - Day Two (19.08.08)

The third site - Pisaq

A view of the valley below from on top of the mountain. This is where the bus toppled over the cliff and the driver died (not our bus thankfully).

A photo snuck surrepticiously so I didn´t have to pay.

More Inca terraces. They really are quite amazing.

Sitting in front of some temples.

The entrance to the sun dial.

A view of the temples.


If you look closely you can see some store houses and a watch tower. In the valley below is the Sacred River.

Even more Inca terraces - they are everywhere. They must have been very fit.


Local children at the Pisaq market posing for a sole.

On Tuesday after a leisurely start to the day we set off to the Inca fortress perched dramatically on the mountain above Pisac. This meant driving up a very windy, steep road to the archeological site above. In many sectors, the ruins are built right along the edge of an abyss. Elizabeth and Sophie were both not feeling too well so they stayed with the bus whilst the rest of us elected to start the walk along the terraces that would eventually lead us back down the mountain to Pisac village. Whilst they were in the car park another bus tried to squeeze between the side of the cliff and a row of parked cars. Thankfully, the driver had already dropped off his passengers, as he hit another bus and plunged down the side of the cliff, flying out the window. This stupid decision cost the 26 year old driver his life. He was dead by the time some tourists, who were doctors, reached the wreckage. Elizabeth and Sophie witnessed the whole spectacle and were understandably rather shaken up. The rest of our group heard the ambulance sirens as we were exploring the ruins but had no idea what they were for until later.

The sites we were visiting kept getting better and better. I can’t wait to go to Machu Picchu. The path we took lead us past an Incan cemetery ~ holes in the mountain where mummies were placed. Apparently a mummy can fetch a decent price on the black market so guards have to continually watch over this area to keep the grave robbers at bay. We marched past more terraces and storage rooms along the mountain and through a short tunnel carved into the rock, to the ceremonial area which consists of a sun dial, altars, water fountains and basins, and a ceremonial platform. The water features were very impressive and would have made Jamie Durie proud. Inspired by the amazing plumbing, Jon now wants to install some Incan aqueducts in our backyard!

We then headed down the mountain past many circular ruins that would have been guard posts and watch towers. The hundreds of steep steps (apparently nothing compared to the Machu Picchu Inca Trail) led us all the way back to the Pisac market where I quickly forgot about my sore legs and went shopping! Turns out the alpaca blanket I bought as a gift for someone is only about 20% alpaca and I could have got it for half the price at another stall. I hate it when that happens!

On the way back to the volunteer house we passed another accident. This time a local bus had met head on with a pregnant cow. Didn’t seem like anyone was hurt but the cow was not so fortunate. It was lying dead in the middle of the road and had made a mess of the windscreen.

Sacred Valley - Day One (18.08.08)

The first site - Chinchero





The steep road up to the church and Inca terraces.




The Spanish church.


Inca terraces.



Jon and myself seated on an Inca throne - pretty cool.

The second site - Ollantaytambo








An Inca purification bath - used before ceremonies.



Some locals.


Ollantaytambo town - Jon on the corner of one of the narrow cobbled streets. The roofs of the houses are tied down with dried lama skins.

The Sacred Valley, just outside Cusco, is named so because of the fertility of its soils and the richness of the flora and fauna. The area stretches for about 100 kilometres from Pisac to Machupicchu and includes several towns and the majority of the monuments that were built during the Empire of the Incas. Winding its way along the valley, between snow capped peaks as high as 5000 metres, is the Vicanota River (Sacred River). All of these things combine to form an area of breathtaking beauty which we explored for two days.

We set off in two buses for Chinchero first. Unfortunately, not all the group came as Ross and Fiona had collected some amoebas somewhere along the way and needed bed rest. Our group seems to be taking turns contracting sallmonelosis, diarrhea, giardiasis and other nasty ailments. So far Jon and I have remained immune although there is something to be said about altitude and gas (it is not just us).

Chinchero is known as the “birthplace of the rainbow”, although I don’t know why, it wasn’t as though it was more colourful than other places we have seen. Maybe it has something to do with the vibrant market that takes place here on Sundays. We had to climb a rather steep cobblestone street up to the colonial church and Inca ruins. The church, although rather dark and damp, was elaborately decorated inside (every square inch of the ceiling was covered in paintings) with a combination of Christian and local indigenous beliefs (such as sacred mountains painted behind angels). Parts of the walls were made from sections of the Inca temple that once stood on the site. The Inca ruins mostly consisted of impressive terraces and fragments of terracotta pottery. There were also ceremonial alters and a throne facing the sacred mountains which made for a rather scenic vista.

After lunch we headed over to the town of Ollantaytambo, the best surviving example of Inca city planning. The narrow cobblestone streets have been continuously inhabited for over 700 years. Built on approximately 600 hectares, it contains religious, astronomical, administrative and urban complexes, with areas reserved for activities related to agriculture and livestock.

We had to climb hundreds of steps (thank goodness for our 1000 step training in Belgrave ~ not that it has really helped at all) up the steep terraced mountain to reach the ceremonial areas that overlook the town below. The Incas must have been a very fit race. On the day of the winter solstice (June 21st) the sun’s rays peak over Pinkuylluna, a nearby mountain, that has been carved into a face known as Wiracochan or Tunupa (if you use your imagination). The rays actually shine through the eye, and light up the Temple of the Sun. I wonder how long it took them to get that right! The Incas seem to like doing that sort of thing as a means of astronomical observations and keeping time. Nearby the carved face are the ruins of storage rooms, built high up the mountain to keep the produce cool and insects at bay.

Apparently Ollantaytambo marks one of the few places where the conquistadors lost a major battle, when Manco Inca threw missiles (giant stones) onto the plain below. You can see the stones lying there still. I found this place, which is surrounded by snow capped mountains, amazing. I really liked Chinchero but this place was even more spectacular, possibly because there was more then just terraces to see. There was also a quaint town at the bottom which I would have liked more time to wander through.

That evening we slept at the town of Pisac, which marks the start of the Sacred Valley (we seem to be doing this tour backwards). It was fantastic to have a long, hot shower with strong water pressure (something we don’t seem to have at the volunteer house ~ possibly a good thing as it means no one spends too much time in the bathroom, especially Jon who has been known to fall asleep under the shower back home).

Monday, August 18, 2008

Hanging Out In Cusco (16.08.08 ­- 17.08.09)













Woke up and went to Jacks for a breaky like those you would get back home. I ate a plateful of delicious pancakes and got a stomach ache ­– worth it. Jon couldn’t go past the cooked breakfast, he never can. I think Jon could have spent the whole day there, instead I dragged him around to the museums that were on our 10 day pass. The museos as they are called here, were rather crap to say the least. The contemporary art was not to our taste (that is being polite) and the two other historic museums had a small collection of broken pots. The mummies in fetal position (ready for their rebirth into the after life ­– a museum exhibition) were interesting with their bits of matted hair but they only took up a whole five minutes of our time. There was also some Spanish colonial art but I am a bit over the blood and gore in the paintings (they seem to love it) and various oddly distorted saints­ – one looked like he had elaphantitus. The abundance of gold leaf is a bit much as well.

In the evening we watched The Dark Knight. You needed a whole night to watch it ­– it went forever.

Sunday… back to Jacks. When you are onto a good thing you should stick to it! As we were wondering back to Plaza De Armas (the heart of the ancient Inca capital and modern day Cusco's main square), we noticed some sort of parade was on. I am not entirely sure what it was for but it involved hundreds of children in different year levels ranging from grades one to three. They were all dressed up in traditional costumes and were all performing different dances (I assume from the region their costumes were derived from). I was very impressed with the standard of dress and dance moves. These kids were definitely not from Pumamarca ­– they had way too much money to spend on costumes (presumably) and their feet were very clean (our kids feet are caked in filth. I am not sure they have been clean since birth). One lot of kids were carrying around skulls that looked amazingly realistic ­– I wonder where they dug them up from. Unfortunately I didn’t get a good pic of them.

In the late afternoon Jon went with a bunch of others to watch Cusco beat Lima at soccer by a penalty in extra time. I stayed behind as I felt rather ill (bad cold). Some of the girls were rather concerned when Jon and Terry sampled the local fare on offer in the stadium.

Note: Both are fine, some of the girls are not!